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1. What is the scientific word for a cat's whiskers?

A. Jactitatae
B. Oscillatae
C. Vibrissae
D. Quaverae

2. How many total whiskers does the average cat have coming from the 'whisker pad' (the puffy area between the top corners of your cat's mouth and the outer edges of his nose)?

A. 20
B. 24
C. 12
D. 16

3. How many times thicker than ordinary cat hairs are cat whiskers?

A. 2-3 times
B. 1-2 times
C. 3-4 times
D. 4-5 times

4. Whiskers are rooted very deep in the cat's face, in an area rich in nerves and blood vessels. Compared to cat hairs, how many times deeper in a cat's tissue are whiskers set?

A. 3 times
B. 4 times
C. 2 times
D. 5 times

5.Cat whiskers can give an indication of your cat's mood. When the whiskers are relaxed or pushed forward, which of the following is NOT how your cat feels?

A. happy
B. defensive
C. curious
D. content

6. It is okay to trim or cut your cat's whiskers.

A. True
B. False

7. Whiskers help the cat feel his way around. This is because whiskers are so sensitive that they can detect the slightest change in ...?

A. Air currents
B. Air speed
C. Air temperature
D. Air humidity

8.When can whiskers be a 'bother' to a cat?

A. When he is playing with string
B. When he sleeps on his side
C. When he tries to eat out of a bowl
D. When he is hunting

9.Cat whiskers fall out and are replaced.

A. True
B. False

An exercise partner makes hitting the gym and staying active fun, and a new study by the University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine found that your dog may be the best exercise partner of all!

The study found that people who walk dogs exercise more consistently and show more improvement than people who walk with a human exercise partner. The study, conducted by the Research Center for Human-Animal Interaction (ReCHAI) at the University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine, focused on 54 older adults at an assisted living home. Of the participants, 35 were asked to walk five days a week for 12 weeks (the remaining 19 functioned as a control group). Among the walkers, 23 elected to walk with a friend or spouse; the other 12 partnered with a dog from a local animal shelter for the daily walks.

According to the researchers, those walking with dogs exercised more consistently than walkers with human partners. Rebecca A. Johnson, the director of the research institute, said that human partners often discouraged each other from exercise. However, the prospect of walking with a dog encouraged the other participants in the study to walk each day, she said.

Dog walkers also showed improvement in their physical mobility: the study found that walking speed among dog walkers increased by 28 percent, while walking speed among human walkers increased only by 4 percent. According to Johnson, by the end of the study, dog-walkers also were able to rely less on canes and walkers to help them get around.

A previous study conducted by ReCHAI found that when people are responsible for walking a dog, they exercise more and lose more weight - one ReCHAI study group lost an average of 14 pounds in one year, according to Johnson.

With obesity rates on the rise for both people and pets, regular exercise benefits both you and your canine companion. If you need to shed a few extra pounds, or simply need a nudge to get outside and be active, look to your dog for help. After all, he or she will never say no to a walk!

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it's also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn't get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat's interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.

A puppy likes biting and chewing on almost anything that enters its world. Just as with jumping, biting between litter mates is their style of play. Biting also teaches them how to use their main hunting tool, their teeth. Unfortunately, this behavior often carries over into their interactions with the members of their new home.

Puppies have very sharp teeth and a bite or nip can hurt. Along with inflicting pain, a dog bite can be terrifying to small children.

There are several methods that are used to eliminate this unwanted behavior.

Holding the Mouth Shut
The simplest method for handling this behavior is to very, very quickly grab the puppy's mouth and hold it shut. While holding the mouth shut, say a single, stern "No" in a low tone. Holding the mouth closed is usually done by placing the thumb over the top of the puppy's nose and the fingers below the bottom of the jaw.

Holding the mouth closed for four to five seconds is sufficient and the puppy usually whines. Don't try to cause them pain; there is no need to firmly squeeze the mouth. After releasing the puppy's mouth, don't make any further fuss, but go on with whatever you were doing.

It will take a few sessions for the puppy to catch on, but the animal will soon put together the facts that the bite instantly causes his mouth to be held shut.

It's not recommended to bring children into this form of discipline. Children can get hurt or they can hurt the puppy.

Startle Response and Redirection
As soon as the puppy bites down, make a sudden, abrupt, high-pitched, loud "yelp" sound. This imitates the sound that a littermate would make if bitten by the puppy. This sound should be so sudden and sharp that the puppy is immediately startled and stops the behavior. If done correctly, the puppy immediately removes his mouth and looks bewildered. At that point, quickly substitute a toy (such as a ball) for the puppy to chew on.

This method redirects the puppy's biting behavior to the ball. The puppy learns that it is no fun to bite; however, chewing the toy is ok. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times during the puppy's play period. If the "yelps" make the puppy more excited, it's best to try another approach.

Stop the action immediately and dramatically leave the room when the puppy bites. This is certainly a method children can use. After multiple times the puppy will learn that every time she bites, she loses her playmate, and that's no fun at all.

Important! No matter what method you use, do not entice the puppy to bite you. Games like tug-of-war and waving your hands in front of the puppy may encourage him (or her) to bite.

An animal that has trouble going up or down the stairs, can't jump up on the furniture, and / or seems to be in constant pain may have a back problem

Disk problems are the most common back problems in dogs. The disk functions as a shock absorber between the vertebrae, commonly known as the bones of the back.

When these disks are injured or degenerate, they put pressure on the nerves, creating a "pinched nerve." Aside from a pinched nerve, the injury can interfere with nerve impulses that are sent down the spinal cord. Without a complete functioning nervous system, advanced cases can cause a wobbly gait, leading to paralysis in the hind limbs.

Dogs with short legs and long bodies are most affected by disk problems. Commonly affected breeds include dachshunds and basset hounds.

Basset Hound

Dachshund

Early detection is very important in the treatment of back problems. As soon as a problem is noticed, strict rest is recommended. Unlike humans, dogs don't lie on their backs and certainly don't do very well in traction. Strict rest, and particularly no jumping, is best for the animal.

In more pronounced cases, your veterinarian may recommend surgery in order to remove the affected disk. Back surgery is generally pretty expensive and there are risks that go with it. Back surgery is generally performed by a surgeon / specialist at a referral veterinary hospital.

The earlier the surgical procedure is done, the higher its success rate. Back injuries in dogs are like spinal cord injuries in people. Once paralysis sets in, the success rate declines rapidly, and some veterinarians elect not to take their patients to surgery.

Early detection and a veterinary examination are essential for quick recovery from a back injury. Depending upon the severity of the injury, most dogs recover quite well with medication, rest and lots of TLC. Dogs that have more complicated injuries may be candidates for more complicated back surgery.

The Special Needs of Newborn Puppies

When it comes to adequate nutrition, one of the most critical times in a puppy's life is immediately following birth. At this time, the bitch produces a special type of milk called colostrum, which contains antibodies that newborn puppies absorb through their intestine. These antibodies provide temporary immunity for the puppy, offering it protection from a variety of infectious diseases.

Since the puppy's intestine can only absorb these antibodies during the first 24 hours of life, it is vitally important that it receives adequate colostrum during this period. After this 24 hour period, the colostrum changes, and within three to four days, the mother is producing mature milk.

To determine if the newborn puppy is growing normally, consider weighing the animal daily during the first two weeks and then every three to four days until weaning. During the first three to four weeks of life, puppies should gain one to two grams per day for every pound they're expected to weigh as an adult. For example, if the anticipated adult weight is 25 pounds, the puppy should be gaining 25 to 50 grams daily.

Puppies should nurse a minimum of four to six times daily. In healthy puppies, the mother's milk is adequate for normal growth until about four weeks of age. After this time, milk alone cannot meet the nutrients needed for normal development, therefore supplemental feeding should begin.

Introducing Solid Food

We recommend these guidelines when introducing supplemental food:

• Start semi-solid food at three to four weeks of age.
• Feed a thick gruel of dry puppy diet mixed with warm water (do not use cow's milk, which may cause diarrhea)
• Place the gruel in a shallow dish (i.e., a pie pan)
• Feed a minimum of three times per day. At each feeding, clean the plate and replace unfinished food with new food.
• Dry puppy food (instead of gruel) can be introduced at six weeks of age

The Rapid Growth Period

Puppies grow most rapidly during the first six months of life. During this period, rapid organ growth occurs. Supplying a complete and balanced diet for growth during this phase is essential for normal development. Energy requirements during this period of development are greater than for any other stage in life (except for a female at the end of pregnancy and during lactation). The energy needs of a rapidly growing puppy are three times the needs of an adult dog.

Similarly, the protein requirement of growing puppies is greater than that of adult dogs. Because puppies have higher energy needs and eat more food than adult dogs, the total amount of protein they consume is naturally higher.

Pet foods for growing puppies should contain more protein than foods developed for adult dogs. More importantly, the protein contained in the food should be high quality. The recommended minimum percentage of energy supplied by protein in the diet for a growing puppy is 26 percent.

Food Quality and Energy Requirements

Growing puppies have large requirements for both energy and nutrients. The problem is that they have less digestive capacity (smaller stomachs and intestines), smaller mouths, and smaller and fewer teeth than adults. These differences limit the amount of food a puppy can eat and digest at one time.

The potentially negative effects of poor food quality are far reaching. If a diet contains poor quality protein or is low in energy density, a larger amount of food must be consumed. Moreover, the limits of the puppy's small stomach may be reached before adequate nutrients have been consumed, resulting in decreased growth and impaired muscular and skeletal development.

Also remember that growing puppies should not be overfed. Mild overfeeding early in life can lead to an accelerated growth rate. Primarily in large breeds of dogs, an accelerated growth rate can also result in development of several skeletal disorders, including osteodystrophy, osteochondrosis, and hip dysplasia.

In contrast, feeding growing puppies a moderately restricted level of a well-balanced diet does not affect final body size or development. Based on the latest research, feeding to achieve an average (rather than maximal) growth rate for the dog's particular breed is highly recommended. Strict portion-controlled feeding and frequent assessment of weight gain and body condition are important steps toward realizing this goal. Three small meals per day should be provided until the puppy is four months of age, after which two meals per day should be fed.

Practical Feeding Tips

After puppies are weaned, they should be fed a diet specifically formulated for growth. The food should be guaranteed Nutritionally Adequate for Growth or for All Life Stages, as demonstrated in the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) feeding trials.

For adequate nutrition for growing puppies, consider the following guidelines:

• Feed a highly digestible, nutrient-dense diet specifically formulated for growth
• Feed regular meals and use a portion-controlled regimen
• Try to feed the meals at the same time each day
• Feed three meals daily up to four months of age, and two meals daily afterward
• Feed to achieve average growth rate for the pet's breed, and to support a lean body condition
• Avoid overfeeding or feeding to promote maximal growth rate
• Provide regular daily exercise
• Do not add nutrient supplements to the puppy's balanced diet (adding dietary supplements to a balanced diet is unnecessary and may even be detrimental)

Adequate nutrition is an important component of a puppy's overall growth and development. The guidelines above can help you provide optimal nutrition to meet the diverse needs of growing puppies. If you have questions regarding the proper food for your puppy or adult dog, talk to a staff member at your local veterinary hospital. These professionals know what food is right for your pet.